How to Stabilize the Back, Neck and Front Edges
Lesson 14 from: Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting MethodPati Palmer, Marta Alto
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How to Stabilize the Back, Neck and Front Edges
Lesson 14 from: Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting MethodPati Palmer, Marta Alto
Lesson Info
14. How to Stabilize the Back, Neck and Front Edges
Lessons
Fitting the Sheath Dress Pattern
1Class Introduction
04:51 2What is Tissue Fitting?
24:33 3Tools for Tissue Fitting and Measuring High Bust
11:51 4Prepping the Pattern
12:11 5Making Alterations on the Pattern for Hourglass Figure
22:35 6Working with Darts
19:40 7Tissue Fitting on a High-Low Round Back
28:59Tissue Fitting Full Bust/Broad Back
34:33 9Tissue Fitting for High Bust/Straight Back/ Making a Y-Bust
28:20 10Fit and Alter the Sleeve
12:00 11Fit and Alter the Skirt
24:08Fitting the Fashion Patterns
12Altering Fashion Pattern: Side Panel Blouse
53:46 13Altering Fashion Pattern: Knits
52:24 14How to Stabilize the Back, Neck and Front Edges
06:27 15Altering Fashion Pattern: Princess Bust
54:17 16Working with a Non-Palmer/Pletsch Pattern
35:49 17How to Tissue Fit Without a Partner
08:26Lesson Info
How to Stabilize the Back, Neck and Front Edges
Again, while we were doing that knit book recently, we really played with stabilizing a lot because I wasn't really sure how often how much and so forth destabilize and for example, on a polyester ponti pant I usually don't stabilize the crotch, but if it's a ray on ponty pant, I usually so a state tape and this is not a fuse herbal it's just a a half inch wide stabilized trico nylon I think it's not one don't make glasses on um and that I put it in after I fit the pants in fabric and then when I wear them that the ray on's and the wolves and everything they will grow a little bit because they're more like natural fibers. Um, I also sometimes if I've made something that isn't a stretch, is this like, out of a ponti? And I'm not sure if I need to stabilize his shoulders, but I usually do if I'm doing it after the fact I'll just sew this into the scene after I've sown the scenes, but there's also, um stabilizers that come on a role that don't stretch and they have a few usable on one sid...
e of them and when you can use the fuse herbal that's that works really well too you just wanna make sure it's stable if you have perfect few sheer in your stash you can cut strips on the lengthwise screen, and one advantage here is I can cut them a little wider. The stabilising tapes are half an inch in if you want, like on this edge, I'd probably use perfect few share because I could cut it in pen in here being a little wider when I fuse it to the wrong side, and I turned this edge to pretend like that's on the inside to top stitch it, I've actually got a little bit the feasible in the fold, which gives that edge a little bit more stability and strength. This is totally stable, and on a rap front like this, especially one, that is not the big rap like I had on yesterday, I didn't stabilize that one because there's much fullness in the rap, but this is just an edge and notice I was going to stabilized before she put it on, and martin said, well, let's, just see how it stretches. We will definitely need to stabilize, and I'm surprised it hasn't stretched even more because that video, you know, concern, um, but it has stretched so here's, the order that we would do it, we would take it off based the shoulders to control them, and then I probably go in with the three threads, surgery, stitch, surge, the shoulder seams, and I was sure yes, I like my seems pressed open. Yes, because it's less bulky, depending on the fabric, probably precedent. Also in this one, you better is this bigger, and then I would stabilize after both shoulder seams were done. I would stabilize all the way around the neck and down both friends with the stabilizing interfacing, and this would be just fused to the underside. But before you do that, then you do need to pin all your pieces, which I don't want to do, because I want you to be able to go home and do it. We will want to make sure that this hasn't stretched, so we will take the pattern piece, lay the fabric on the table, put the pattern piece on top, and if it has stretched, we will just find nothing. See that there's a little stretch way would just make sure this came to the edge and this came to the edge, appears your shoulder, and we take our fingers and sort of swish the excess evenly, just patted in place under the tissue, and I take a tissue out. Of course, this would be wrong side up, so I don't have to, you know, with it, and then we start over, then I would take tape and place it on the wrong side, now that it's the same size and I would just put this along the edge and pin it to the ironing board first and then I would just iron it and the polyester stabilising tapes are if usable is you do not need you may need a press cloth just to keep it from sticking to your iron that lightly, fuse it first and then fuse it for ten seconds all the way along and do that to the back neck as well and you need to pin into the ironing boards in curve it along the back neck, but then it will never stretch out and if you're doing it flat, you can also put stabilising tape, fuse it to the shoulders at that same time and again, you would make sure it's the same size as the pattern and hasn't stretched out and anything else on stabilising you get good? Yeah, excellent! I'm gonna actually just un p in the side seems a little easier to get it off that way, it's true and what I'm going to do because I changed the pins is just take out the pin and put it back in, so what I would do is because I've taken it in I would, um just check the width of the scene and make sure it's five eights and trim away the excess wait you have to get it off your hands way go well, great that's gonna look fabulous on you. Well, thank you so much, cutie and marta. We have now learned how to utilize a mitt pattern and knit fabric and where we had to actually add four different parts to the pattern. And also you showed us all about how to stabilize that knit fabric as well. So, in our next lesson, we are going to look at the same fashion pattern. But this time, with nancy, we're going to see how you fit a princess front, which is a very different. So we'll see that.
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user-7c3291
This is one of the best courses I have taken online; I just wish you had the ability to make notes or tabs so you could refer back to certain sections more easily. I have met and followed Pati Palmer for many years but this was my first experience listening to Marta Alto and I see why they work so well together. Thank you both for sharing your many years of experience. It was interesting to hear Pati's history on many things and I really loved Marta's sense of humour it makes watching so much more fun!
Leslie coduti
I sew very well, imagine the disappointment when what I have sewn just does not fit well. Everyone who sews and wants what they have sewn to really be a joy to wear should take this course. It is like being there in the actual workshop. I am only half way through in the viewing and am anxious to apply what I have seen to my own sewing. It has been presented so well and in such detail that one comes away with confidence that they too can do this. I am also impatient, making a muslin takes time. Time is so precious and time to sew is really hard to come by. I have tissue fit pants in a workshop in Michigan and used a Palmer-Pletch pattern for a princess line dress I made in silk on my own. Both items fit my mature figure beautifully, and I did not have to make a muslin first for either one! When you hear, "What you see is what you get" believe it. Take this class, it will improve your fitting ability immensely and you won't believe how easy it is.
Rose Mellor
Love this program! Being able to watch the lessons multiple times is like taking the class over and over. For those of us who have a hard time learning something new this is sensational. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Rose Mellor