Shooting Menu Page 1
Let's get started on the main shooting menu. So you wanna get yourself over to the shooting menu. The first tab on the left. First item in the list is image quality, and what do you know we've already talked about this. We talked about this back when it was the quick control menu, and if you recall if you want the original information off the sensor you set it to RAW. If you want a large quality JPEG, you set the largest quality smooth JPEG there. Got that smooth curve to it. Occasionally some people might need RAW plus JPEG, but for the most part I would encourage you to try to shoot RAW. That way you're getting the full information and you can make any and all adjustments later on afterwards. As we go through this menu here on screen and in the PDF handout that I have, you will see my recommendations as to where I think they should be set for different types of users. And sometimes more advanced users have slightly different needs then the general user, and I'll put those in red if I...
have two different setting recommendations depending on the feature that we're talking about. Next up is image review. So when you shoot an image do you wanna see it on the back of the camera? Most of us do, we want to see what the digital version of what we saw with our own eyes are. And so in this case two seconds is fine. You can leave it off to save battery power if you need it on for longer, you can set it longer if needed. Release shutter without card will lock your shutter and won't allow you to shoot photos when there is no memory card in the camera. This makes sense so that you don't accidentally think that you're taking photos when there's no way of recording them. The only reason that you would really want to enable this that I can think of is if you worked in a camera store and you wanted to showcase what the shutter sound, sounds like when you are shooting photos even though there's no memory card in the camera. Lens aberration correction. Okay so this is the first of many different features that we're gonna talk about that apply only to JPEG images only, so you'll see that little JPEG only sign popup by all of these features. And so this is not gonna deal with RAW images, only JPEG images. First up is peripheral illumination correction, also known as vignetting, or darkening of the corners. Lenses that have very fast apertures like a 50 mm 1.4 lens, is like to have a lot of vignetting to it, and the camera knows how much vignetting the Canon lenses have, and can automatically correct for this by just brightening up those pixels closer to the corner, and so if you want to do that, you can turn it on, which works pretty well in landscape photography, but a lot of people like shooting with that vignette look to their images, and so not everyone wants to have that turned on. Chromatic aberration deals with color ghosting. Chromatic means color, aberration, ghosting. This can happen when you have a very light-colored background. The light rays don't hit in quite the right spot on the sensor, and they cause either this tealish-green or this red coating right next to.... Line right next to your solid object. The camera will know how bad the chromatic aberration is on a particular lens, and can automatically fix it. I have yet to meet anyone who likes chromatic aberration, and so this is something that you would probably want to have fixed and left turned on on your camera. Now this peripheral illumination and the chromatic aberration are good examples of what the camera can do with a Canon lens, but cannot fix on a Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, or other brand of lens, so this is something that'll only work with the Canon lenses. Another option is distortion correction. This will sometimes happen with wide-angle lenses. As an example, you'll notice that the horizon in this photograph is definitely curved a bit, and so if you want to correct for that, you can turn this on, and let me go back and forth between a corrected image versus not, and you definitely see that makes a bit of a difference, and so nobody really likes that distortion, or if they do, they generally will go ahead and just buy a fisheye lens for doing that. We don't like a little bit of distortion in those types of photographs, so leaving that turned on would probably make sense. Diffraction correction is going to deal with a problem of stopping your lens down to f16 or 22 and getting diffraction, which is a loss of sharpness because of the light going through a very small opening, the aperture opening. And so in some cases, you really need f22 to keep the foreground in focus and the background in focus, but you lose a little bit of sharpness when you do that. So by turning diffraction correction on, you're gonna sharpen up your photos a little bit, and the camera's gonna know how much diffraction a particular lens would have at a particular aperture, and it's gonna compensate for that, and it doesn't seem to really cause any harm, so it seems like a sensible thing to leave on all the time. So once again, those are only being applied to the JPEG images. Lens electronic manual focus. For a number of the Canon lenses, when you turn the manual focus ring, and the camera is in auto focus, it's not going to do anything, but with this turned on, it will allow you to manually focus after the camera has done it's auto focus. So if you find that you occasionally like to touch up or fix the problems of auto focus where it was not doing exactly what you wanted, some more advanced photographers who like to manually focus like to leave that turned on.