Lesson Info
17. Live View Shooting
Lessons
Class Introduction
13:10 2Photo Basics
04:26 3Camera Controls: Mode Dial
23:17 4Top of Camera Controls
28:17 5Viewfinder Display Overview
11:11 6Play Back Menu
09:18 7Live View & Movie Modes
23:17 8Autofocus Options
17:27Quick Menu Overview
08:45 10Left & Right Sides of Camera
05:55 11Bottom & Front of Camera
05:23 12Canon 5D Mark IV Lens Options
13:20 13Shooting Menu Overview
04:27 14Dual Pixel RAW Demo
11:29 15Shooting Menu Options
39:15 16Timelapse Video Demo
11:44 17Live View Shooting
05:26 18Movie Menu Overview
19:59 19Auto Focus Menu
28:09 20Playback Menu
08:36 21Setup Menu
17:37 22GPS Demo
12:41 23WiFi Demo
16:36 24Custom Functions Menu
18:16 25Camera Operation
07:12Lesson Info
Live View Shooting
Page five is going to be dealing with things dealing with live view shooting. When you hit the live view button on the back of the camera, we can disable it. Some people hit it accidentally and they never want to use it, so you could turn it off here. I think it's a very handy feature for most people to use from time to time. We talked before about the AF method. If this seems familiar, it's because when we were in live view, we could turn this on and off with our quick menu button. That would give us a menu of many of the different options and we could choose the different focusing modes. The face and subject tracking, I think is very good, but for having very precise control over what you're focusing on, I prefer that small box of focusing for basic shooting in this mode. There is a touch shutter, where you can use the screen on the back of the camera to shoot photos. Let me go ahead and do a little demo here on this. I'm gonna go ahead and turn my camera on in the live view mode and...
let's zoom in a little bit over here, and I think I need a prop on this so I'm gonna move this and I'm actually gonna grab one of these cameras over here, because I want something in the foreground as well as something in the background. Let's go with a little wider angle. Here we have foreground/background, and so I can press down here to focus. Right now I have it set to focus and shoot. I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna change this focusing system here. I don't want the subject tracking, I just want to choose a single point. Let me change, I want to get some more information right here. Right now, I am focusing and shooting, but maybe I only want to focus, and so that is controlled right down here. There is a touch shutter that I have disabled, and so now, I can focus and now I can decide when I want to shoot a photo. You can either focus and shoot or just focus. That can be turned on and off with the touchscreen, or it can be turned on in the menu system. There is a number of touch features, we're not going into all of them, but there's a lot of them that are pretty obvious onscreen, if you just kinda keep your eyes peeled for those things. It can be controlled here or on the back of the camera. Grid display. For compositional reasons, for lining up the horizon, in the back screen of the camera, we're gonna see this about three different times because it's available in different areas, this is just on the back of the camera when you're composing things. I do like working with a number of the different grids, but normally I like to have my images clutter free. By default, I leave things turned off, I'll go in and turn them on when they're necessary. The aspect ratio. The camera's sensor is a three by two aspect ratio, and if you want to shoot with a different ratio, you can and you will see it framed up in the back of the camera. This can be really handy if you know you need a final square, this allows you to see it in camera what that final image is going to look like. Normally, you'd leave it on three by two because that's what the sensor is in itself. Exposure simulation. I have found it very helpful to leave this on "enable", which means, when you look at the back of the camera, it's trying to give you it's best guess as to what the final picture is gonna look like. It's been accurate enough that I have been basing my exposures on what I see on the back of the camera for a large number of my photos. One area where this is terrible and doesn't work, is if you are in the studio or you're using flash photography, because the lighting situation is gonna look really dark and it only gets bright when the flash fires. If you're working in the studio, you want to turn this "disable", but if you are judging it for brightness and you're using it kind of as an exposure guideline, like does this look too light or too dark, then I would leave it on "enable". There is also one where you can have it only turned on when you press the depth of field button, which can be very handy for someone who typically wants to leave it off, but wants to have access to turning it on and off pretty quickly. Final page in the shooting menu, this one's a little bit more complicated, but when you are in the live view mode, how does that first shutter work? For mode one, it uses an electronic first shutter curtain, which means there is no vibrations when you are shooting, which is fantastic for anyone working from a tripod, especially like an architectural photographer, and very much so for a macro photographer, where any sort of vibration, even the shutter moving, can be a major problem. One of the problems with mode one is that the flash does not fire, so if you're working in the studio with flash photography, you're gonna probably want to set it onto "disable". Mode one is gonna be good for most people in this case. How long does the metering stay active? Eight seconds is fine, adjust to your needs.
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Ratings and Reviews
r_peddle
John is such a fabulous educator. Well spoken, knowledgeable and he presents with such clarity and easy, it makes listening that much more enjoyable. I would highly recommend taking this class and any of his classes dealing with photography. HE simplifies the menu system and buttons on the camera in this course that would be painstakingly long if you tried it on your own. I have watched this video 2-3 times know and each time I go back, I learn a little more. Being able to drop into any of the main topics with easy, not having to watch and search for your desired info is so convenient. I will never buy another camera without checking to see if John has completed a review on it........I trust his opinion. Thanks John......I am a fan.
Ralph Somma
I was reluctant to purchase this course because I already have the Instruction Manual that came with the 5D Mark IV and am committed to reading it in it's entirely. Nevertheless, after watching a preview of the course, I decide to buy it so I could view it at my leisure, pause and rewind it as needed. I am so glad I did. John Greengo's teaching method is clear and concise. He presents the material in a way that makes it interesting and enjoyable to learn. His effective use of visuals and demonstrations makes understanding every important function of the 5D Mark IV a breeze. I look forward to implementing what I've learned, his recommendations and tweaking the camera's settings to suit my own needs and preferences. Now as I trudge through all 600+ pages of the manual, I'm confident I will more easily grasp the camera's 100+ settings and can always refer back to the course if necessary.
Teri
First I have to say that I wanted this camera before it was even released. I had taken some of John's fast start courses and I had some questions regarding this camera vs. the 5D mark III and 7D mark II that I was using at that time. I emailed John and got an "out of office/out on location response". I put it out of my mind assuming that when John Greengo was back in the office, he'd have hundreds of emails waiting and my little question would get lost in the shuffle. I was delighted to receive a response a few weeks later. I was even more delighted when he released this fast start course. I did end up buying the 5D mark IV (love it) and had a pretty good handle on using it. This class opened up some new doors in how to use all of the features and customize things to suit my needs. I can never recommend John's classes enough. He explains things in an easy yet technical way that is useful to both beginners and seasoned photographers!
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