Tracing & Transferring the Template
Lesson 1 from: Beginning Sawing & Piercing for Jewelry MakingBonnie Heras
Tracing & Transferring the Template
Lesson 1 from: Beginning Sawing & Piercing for Jewelry MakingBonnie Heras
Lessons
Lesson Info
Tracing & Transferring the Template
Welcome, everybody. So we're going to start with a really basic project that honestly kind of just covers all the fundamental tools that are used for making any kinds of jewelry. So you're gonna be introduced tio using the saw frame, filing, drilling, doing a little polishing. Two that'll be fun at the end finishing techniques, and these techniques are just cover khun go across the board, meaning that you can use this for complicated project as well a simplistic ones. Um, so we're actually going to be making this piece right up over here, some don't hearings, and we're gonna be doing some piercing it's another term that's related, tio basically a technique of sawing, and then we'll do a little shaping on it. As you can see, it will be a polish. So to start, we are going to take our breasts since we're working with today twenty gauge, which is referring to the thickness anytime you heard hear me reference gauge is the thickness of the metal, um, and that actually allows you to know cert...
ain thicknesses are more appropriate for certain types of jewelry, since we are kind of learning I we're going to start with twenty gauge, which is a little bit thicker, but it actually allows you to it is not too thick for a hearing. Some people have kind of sensitivities to how big or how heavy and hearing khun b and so if you are interested, you can copy go a size smaller on this project if you like, which would be a twenty two gauge sheet and so, you know, do what's comfortable for you, but this is what we're referencing because it's an easy thing to saul when you're first learning so that's why we're starting here so we're going to start with our temple it and there is downloaded downloadable template so you don't have tio hand draw out this pattern, so we're going to start by taking our mettle and taking initially actually with a piece of tracing paper take the template that you're that's provided to you and trace out the pattern. Now what I'm using here is actually I used a circle template which if you happen to have that in your in your repertoire at home, you can reference that it's basically the circle here the diameter is one fourth of an inch, so if you find that you have trouble drawing the straight line, you can reference that's that's what I personally use when I made this temple it is and this is something you can pick up at an art store they're not that hard to track down so and I already trace that you can use a pencil you can use a pen to trace it doesn't have to be have to be a pen pencil sometimes can rub off as you start to saw so kind of be aware of that so sharpies kind of your best friend if you will when you are doing any kind of metal smith thing work, especially the extra fine point tip so I'm gonna take a pair of scissors and cut out this pattern and we're going to actually so you don't have to draw directly on the metal. This is what this pattern is for you can, um, glue it to the top of your piece of metal as your guide when you're sawing and that basically not to show you one for now allows you to have a permanent template to kind of guide you as you saw, so I'm actually going to use rubber cement to it here. This paper to the surface of the metal may seem a little odd, but oddly enough, it actually adheres to the metal fairly well. So what we're going to do first is actually paint a thin layer on the metal itself and then on the back of the paper, now you may notice that the pattern is cut one way if you're interested in having your pair of hearing, things have the opposites where the same pattern isn't actually like the line structure is in the same direction. You can just flip over the pattern and just kind of make a note of that before you start to sought out by putting the pattern upside down so that you have the opposite lines. If you don't mind that it looks kind of mere image to each other, then by all means continue with that. So I put a thin layer on the transparent paper, a cz well, as on the metal, we're going to let that dry a little bit, um, letting it dry a little bit actually makes it here better kind of gives a little tackiness to the rubber cement, and so we're going to let that set for just a second, but I have some pre prepped for us are ready, but when basically, how do you know it's dr, you know, it's dry when you don't see kind of a glossy light over the top of the metal kind of the light that reflects off of the glue kind of subdues? It sounds a bit odd, but once you kind of look at it, um, you'll notice so I'm in a place in the center of my brass, and I'm just going to gently rub to attach. Now, if you feel like you might have put it down too soon, just give it a second don't quite dive into the next phase just yet just kind of smooth it over, let's said. If you have any extra kind of edges of tracing paper that's going to get a get in your way when you saw because you needed grip onto all the edges of the metal, so kind of get rid of that by just simply cutting it, and we're ready to go on to the next step, so I have ah, pre prepped these two pieces here, so we're going to start by actually sawing out thes center shapes. Now we're going to start by doing that opposed to cutting out the exterior circle is because the more metal you have to hold on to the better, because when you're selling had led you to grip on to, say several areas and allows you to just be able to go through the movement of sawing user, because if you are actually holding on her tiny piece then and makes the makes a little more cumbersome, you could potentially break your break blade easier as well as, um, actually get close to your fingers a little closer to your fingers that you would be comfortable with, if you know what I mean.
Class Materials
bonus material with purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Valerie Dingler
I learned so much from this class!