Lessons
Class Introduction
05:39 2Welcome to Leica
15:06 3Basic Controls
05:27 4ISO
05:58 5Shutter Speeds and Apertures
08:45 6Accessory Shoe
08:45 7Back Side Controls
37:00 8Bottom Controls
07:07Front Controls
06:39 10M Lenses
18:53 11Menu Functions & Lens Detection Menu
25:05 12JPG Settings Menu
03:44 13Capture Assistants Menu
07:27 14EVF/Display & User Profiles Menus
03:54 15Customize Control Menu
04:57 16WLAN & GPS Menus
09:02 17Date & Time & Language Menus
03:29 18Sensor Cleaning & Camera Info Menus
04:18 19Camera Operation
08:26Lesson Info
Capture Assistants Menu
Capture assistants is gonna lead us into a sub menu, which gives us a lot of different controls on how the camera works. The first option is on focus peaking. We looked at this a little bit earlier and what happens here is that when we zoom in to focus or when we focus with Live View, the areas that are in focus will shimmer. Let me show you a little example of that right here. And you can see that I'm focusing the lens and the area that is in focus is shimmering in red. If you don't like that color, you can choose a different color. If you want you can magnify the image even more, and we can still see the highlights coming in right here. So you can see very clearly where the lens is focusing. And so you get to choose whether it's on or off and what color it is. And so we took a look at that earlier in the class and I think that's a good example right there. Next up is the histogram. And so we talked about that information button on the back of the camera when you are in the Live View ...
mode. This is only gonna work in the Live View mode. Do you want the histogram on or off? I think it is a fantastic light meter. I think it's the light meter of the future cause it gives us a lot more information about the range of colors that we are recording. It's very helpful but it does block a bit of the image and I don't like that. And so it depends on the type of image and exposure you're working with as to whether you want this or not, but I think, in general, it's a good tool to work with. Exposure clipping is gonna allow you to control how much of the area is going to blink at you when you are in a potential exposure situation. So it's gonna show you the highlights in red and the shadows in blue. And you can choose at how quickly it has these exposure margins kind of displayed to you. And so you can choose the lower limit, which is gonna be the darks. How much of those blues you're going to see by adjusting it from zero to 20. And then you can adjust the upper limits down to to show you how much is being done there. So this might be a good little demo here. So let's go ahead and see if we can do an adjustment in here. So let's go ahead and dive into the menu system and let's dive onto that second page of information, down to the capture assistants, and down into the exposure clipping. And so let's just leave this turned on and let's crank this up really high just so that we can see what this looks like. So we're gonna bring this up to 20. Better go back one and then we're gonna come down and we can use a variety of controls on here. And we're gonna this down to so it's gonna show us if we have overexposed or underexposed very, very easily. So we'll go ahead and set that in and now that we're in Live View, what we're gonna do is we're gonna turn on this information and we'll hit it here. And let's adjust our shutter speeds and our apertures. Wait, I don't see it turning on. I think I may have made a mistake, which happens quite frequently. Let's go to the second page, capture assistants, exposure clipping. Clipping is enabled there so that should be good. And I am gonna check one other thing on the camera that I may have set; exposure. I'm gonna set this. We're gonna talk about this in a moment, but I'm gonna set this at permanent right now. And so now we can see this a little bit more easily. And so as I go up in shutter speeds, we can see the areas that we're losing in the shadow areas and as I go to slower shutter speeds letting in more light, we can see our overexposed region. And so if we look right here we have a little bit of red right here in the middle and quite a bit of blue. I'm gonna go back into the menu system. Page two, capture assistants, and I'm gonna adjust my exposure clipping to half of where we were. And so let's take this to ten and take this. What's half of here? I'm just gonna use visually the graph in here. So we'll go right about here, hit set, and let's come back. And so now we don't see those highlights or those shadows blinking until we start making a more significant change in our shutter speeds up or down. And so depending on what your exposure parameters are and how quickly, you want to make sure that you are not overexposing. You can go in and you can customize those menus according to what your needs are on that clipping part. Next up is grids. In the Live View screen and the viewfinder, if you attach the viewfinder onto it, you can turn on these grids. Now typically I try to turn everything off cause I want as clean a view of my subjects as possible, but from time to time for compositional reasons, for aligning subjects, for making sure the horizon is level, these grids can be very, very helpful. And so it's something that you may want to put into your favorites and that way you can get into it a little bit more easily to work with. Exposure simulation. And so this is what I was just playing with a moment ago. And let me give you a good example of what's going on here. And so on the left under permanent, you will see as I'm changing the shutter speeds it gets lighter and darker according to the shutter speeds that I have set. And so it's simulating what the final exposure is gonna look like. And this is a very intuitive, easy way to work to make sure that your exposure is proper, but it does mean that your image is really dark from time to time. Over on the right hand side you can choose release half pressed. And this is only gonna show you the exposure when you half press on the shutter. So if we go down to minus three and press halfway down, it's gonna show us it's really dark. When we go up to plus three stops of exposure compensation, or overexposed by three stops, we're not gonna see it until we press down on the shutter release and then we can see it. The rest of the time it's trying to give us the best possible view in the image. And so most of the time I like it on permanent cause then it's very easy to tell if I'm overexposing or underexposing. But if I was working with flash or in a studio, that's when I would want to be on the release half pressed. And so you may want to try that. See which one works for you in this case. But I think most people will be pretty happy with the permanent. And this is only gonna be effective when you're using Live View or when you're using the Visoflex viewfinder on the camera. Focusing aid. You can have this on automatic or manual. And so in this case what happens is the camera can automatically sense when you're focusing and it will automatically zoom in so that you can see focusing very, very clearly by showing you the magnified view of the subject. If you do a lot of focusing in Live View or with the viewfinder and you really want to get it accurate, this is gonna be the most accurate way to get sharp focus when using Live View or the viewfinder. You can always use the standard viewfinder, which works quite well, but this is gonna work in the electronic viewfinder option.
Class Materials
Bonus Materials with Purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Guy Neal
I am migrating from the Leica Q to the Leica M10. Though I know my way around a Leica digital camera, the Leica M10 is my first rangefinder. I wanted someone to quickly walk me through the front/back/top/bottom of the M10. John Greengo was the perfect guide. This class is "as advertised - a "fast start" for those who prefer not to page through a fairly dense owner's manual. I especially appreciated that the lessons were broken into small chunks - so I could skip the lesson on the wifi setup, for example. And kudos to the person who prepares the amazing slide decks. While there are two dozen free Youtube videos that review the M10, they do not convey the helpful information you get in this excellent class.
Simon Johnson
John does a great job of going through every aspect of using the M10. There's not a dial, stitch button or menu item that isn't comprehensively covered. He uses simple, but effective graphics to explain what's happening. He also touches on the fundamentals of photography and throws in some tips and secrets. I can't imagine anyone doing a better job than John. I'm a Leica Q owner, that's just about to upgrade to an M10 so this course has been very useful indeed.
Sylvia Hoke
John is an excellent teacher. I am so amazed how thoroghly he goes through everything in the menu, about the various lenses, how best to use them and so much more. I am keeping my fingers crossed John gives a class on the Leica SL2-S as there is not much out there at all about the camera and is very much needed. I would be the first to buy the class.
Student Work
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Camera Guides