Shoot 3 Menu
And we're under the third page all right first item here is dust elite data so there is a way to work with some of the cannon software that comes with the camera which is kind of its whole world unto itself it's thie digital photo professional eel software and what it allows you to do if you have a dusty image it allows you to shoot a white card that would show you where all your dust is potentially on your sensor it would then map it out and then it would clone it out of images so that you have nice clean images when you are using the cannon software the problem is is that you have to be shooting with the cannon software and processing your images to use it and so it's not of much use to most of the rest of us who don't use that software which is a little bit on the walkie side according to people who do use it say next up is some controls over our s o auto setting so s o has an option of setting individual numbers like one hundred two hundred four hundred but you can also set it at a...
uto where the camera just kind of does its own thing and there's where you get to have a little bit of control over how it does its thing setting the auto in this case what you can do is you can tell it the maximum number that you are willing tto let the camera go to. So, for instance, let's, say that you know that I s o sixty four hundred. The image quality is below your standards. You could set it to a max eyes, so of thirty, two hundred, and it will go up to thirty, two hundred. But go no further than that. And so here is where it's, good to do a little s o test to see what your standards are and that you could put that in here. A max of thirty, two hundred or sixty, four hundred is probably where most people would have this. Long exposure noise reduction has a few different options off auto and on and we're going to talk about the next feature as well at the same time this is hi s o speed noise reduction so both of these are noise reduction one of it is because we had a long 00:02:06.873 --> 00:02:10. exposure which means one second longer the other is 00:02:10.24 --> 00:02:13. high I s o because there's noise because you've set 00:02:13.22 --> 00:02:16. a very high I esso like say I s o sixty four hundred 00:02:17.27 --> 00:02:21. the camera is willing to try to fix this for you so as an example we have a nice clean image here we have a noisy image and then we have a noisy image that has been corrected and the camera khun do this and it could do a reasonable job but if you have good software if you know what you're doing you could do a much better job later on on your own and so I recommend for any of the serious users to kind of leave this turned off because you're going to be able to produce something much better than the camera can because you khun tailor it to each individual image in this case it kind of just looks at general images and gives it a very simplistic fix and so my recommendations is for the serious users toe leave this turned off but if you're a beginning user and you thought well, you know I just don't have the computer skills yet to kind of fix this sort of problem, you could leave the long exposure into the auto section and then maybe leave the high s o in the standard. And then it's going to do some fixing for you. Be aware that if you are going to be shooting long exposures one second and longer, there will be extra processing time that the camera takes in order to fix this noise. Problem. It's. Not totally. Fixing it. It's, more or less, putting a band aid on it. And be aware that the shooting times is going to slow down and that's. One of the reasons why the more serious photographers leave this turned office to speed up the speed up the shot in the process of actually shooting out in the field. Aspect ratio. Ok, the camera's sensor is a three by two aspect ratio, and if you want, you can crop now. I don't recommend it, because if you have a three by two, you can always crop it later. The only time I would recommend setting this to something other than three by two is if you are one hundred percent positive, that the final product is going to be used for something else. And you would like to have some aids in framing up your composition. So if you knew that you needed a square image, you could set it in one by one. And it's going to show you the crop marks in the camera when you are actually shooting, which could be a big advantage knowing exactly where those marks are going to be. But normally, you're going to want to set it in three by two. Next up is anti flicker shooting and so as I mentioned before this camera can sense whether there is a flicker in the light source and it can shoot around that and I'm going toe call an audible here and I'm gonna try to do a demo here in the class because I noticed something when I was shooting a picture earlier is that it looked really weird and I think we have a weird flicker problem in here and I want to see if the camera can fix this so first off what I'm going to do is I'm going to make sure that this flicker is disabled so we can see here that the flicker is disabled right now so what I'm going to do is I'm going to set up a live shot so you can see what I'm doing and I think there's a problem if I set a very fast shutter speeds so I'm going to set a reasonably high eyes so of thirty two hundred and I'm going to open up my aperture as much as it goes and I'm going to see how fast a shutter speed I can get in here and I'm going to see if I take several pictures so I'm in a four thousandth of a second f one point eight at s o thirty two hundred and I'm going to take several pictures oh, we are getting a really weird flicker and it might be because we using led lights in here so let me play back an image here and can you see the results on the back of the camera here let's see if I'm going to make this a little bit darker let's say we'll go this way I want to make it darker to make it even more visible so can you see the back of the camera there we're getting some weird flicker results and I have to be honest I haven't tested this out in pre show yet on so I'm going to see if this flicker detection will actually solve this problem so that was our problem is we're going to make no other changes other than going in and flicker detection is currently disabled now I have to figure out why's it currently disabled it might because it's in live you now it's available it was live u is the problem so now I'm going to shoot a photo and we're still getting it so I think it's these funky lights in here we have some unusual lights on on the background here but imagine a situation where you might be in a gymnasium that could be the the way to solve the problem so part of me says well I never want to have a flicker problem so I should enable this the problem with enabling this all the time is that it slows the process of shooting just a little bit because it needs to start analyzing the photograph and the scene in a slightly different manner, and it slows up kind of waiting for the photographs and it's, almost like a traffic cop. Not yet, not yet. Okay, now go. Okay, now, wait for the next one needs to wait. Wait. Okay, now timing the next one, whereas in the other scenario, it just shoots a cz, quick as it can. And so normally I would leave this disabled.